CMC Triggers

Trigger control is one of the most important physical actions to accurate shooting. A slight shift of the weapon at the moment you pull the trigger can translate to inches down range.

That’s why so many people seek out a clean, smooth and crisp trigger pull. It makes it easier to fire without shifting your sights. But the options can be overwhelming!

CMC triggers are not only self-contained and easy to install. The company also uses proprietary processes to create incredibly smooth surfaces resulting in a satisfying trigger pull. Best of all, CMC triggers are competitively priced.

The triggers are made in Fort Worth, Texas by experts with a long history in the aerospace industry.

Single-stage triggers have one consistent pull weight from start to the break. They’re most common in rifles, but you certainly can have a single-stage trigger in a pistol as well.

Double-stage triggers usually have a slight take-up where the trigger is looser until it hits a second stage of resistance, called the ‘break wall’. Once you’re at the wall, you must apply additional pressure for the trigger to break. Or you can release the trigger and not fire the weapon.

After firing a double-stage trigger, you can release the trigger just enough for it to reset. This puts you back at the wall. You can then pull and fire or release the trigger and not shoot. If you master this mechanism, you can make quicker and more accurate follow-up shots.

Some people prefer a double-stage trigger, because they can “prepare” the shot by pulling the trigger through the take-up to the wall and then fire at the exact moment they choose.

Others opt for single-stage triggers because your finger doesn’t need to travel as far before the trigger breaks. The reset also tends to be quicker on a single-stage trigger than a double-stage trigger.

Ultimately, it depends on your comfort level and application. CMC offers both single- and double-stage triggers. You decide what’s right for you.

You’ll notice when shopping for CMC triggers that single-stage triggers generally come in one of three trigger pull weights: 2.5 pounds, 3.5 pounds, and 4.5 pounds.

The 2.5-pound trigger pull is very light and is best suited for stationary long-range shooting. When precision is the most important aspect of your shooting, consider a 2.5-pound trigger. Some competition shooters may also favor a 2.5 trigger.

A 3.5-pound trigger has only a slightly heavier pull than a 2.5 pound, but they are preferable for hunting or any application where you want a greater safeguard against negligent discharges. The 3.5-pound trigger is also great for action shooting sports in which you want to put multiple rounds on target quickly.

A 4.5-pound trigger pull is usually better for a duty weapon or self-defense. That's why CMC's Law Enforcement Trigger has a 4.5-pound trigger pull: many agencies mandate a minimum trigger weight requirement for safety reasons.

No matter which trigger you choose, always remember to keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to shoot.

Some of this is personal preference and will depend on what you find the most comfortable.

Flat-faced triggers allow you to get slightly more leverage on your trigger pull. Because you can move your finger further down on the trigger bow, slightly less force is required to activate the sear. CMC flat-faced triggers include a knob at the end to help you develop a consistent indexing point.

Curved triggers guide your finger to the middle of the bow. Some people prefer this, because they find it easier to develop consistent trigger placement. With the arch of the trigger, you’ll have slightly more contact with your trigger finger than a flat-faced trigger bow. This can result in a more comfortable distribution of pressure than a flat trigger.

Ultimately, most people can become excellent shooters with either a flat-faced or a curved trigger bow. The decision has more to do with what feels (and looks) best to you.

CMC manufactures drop-in AR triggers with either small pins, large pins or M&P 15-22 composite pins.

Most ARs will take a small pin. These are 0.154” in diameter. Unless you have a Colt AR made between 1991 and late 2009, a Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 rifle or another rifle with a similarly wide receiver, opt for the triggers with a small pin.

From 1991 to late 2009, Colt increased the size of its trigger pin holes with the intention of making it harder for someone to drop in full-auto M16 fire control parts. The diameter of this hole is 0.172” and requires CMC’s large pin triggers.

The Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 has standard 0.154” diameter pin holes, but the receiver is slightly wider than normal. CMC solved this problem by offering longer 0.154” diameter pins. These are called M&P 15-22 Composite Pins.

If you’re not sure which pin diameter you need, you can push your current trigger pin just far enough out of the receiver to measure its diameter with a pair of calipers.

CMC recommends that you clean the trigger regularly with your choice of solvent to ensure the entire assembly is free from any debris. They recommend using a thicker or heavier moly-based lubricant on sear surfaces. Other moving parts besides the sear can be lubricated with standard gun oil.

The CMC trigger is a self-contained, one-piece design that makes drop-in installation easy. However, the company does recommend those who are not comfortable with the installation or lack the appropriate tools seek out a qualified gunsmith. Installing the Glock trigger requires disassembling the handgun’s lower.

Each trigger housing is specific to each Glock generation. Make sure you have the right caliber and generation for your pistol. Your trigger will come with instructions for installation.

Tool required:
- 3/32” punch

Ensure your firearm is unloaded before proceeding!

1. Remove slide from frame.
2. Remove locking block pin using your punch (if applicable: the Glock 42 does not have a locking block pin).
3. Remove trigger pin with your punch. You may need to wiggle the slide stop lever to allow the pin to pass through.
4. Lift the slide stop lever out of the frame.
5. Remove the trigger housing pin at the rear of the frame using your punch.
6. Use the punch to lift the locking block out of the frame.
7. Remove the Glock trigger assembly by lifting up on the ejector.
8. With CMC trigger assembly, first ensure the trigger spring is in an “S” configuration. The top and bottoms of the spring should follow an “S” pattern.
9. Ensure the trigger bar is in the housing and everything is in alignment. The trigger bar should rest on the connector.
10. Insert the complete trigger assembly into frame. Press straight down to ensure the trigger bar is in alignment with frame and everything seats in position.
11. Reinstall the locking block.
12. Insert locking block pin (if applicable).
13. Reinstall the slide stop lever. The lever goes into a groove in the frame, and the hook of the slide stop spring goes underneath the locking block pin. Look through the trigger pin hole to check that everything is in alignment.
14. Insert trigger pin. You may need to wiggle the slide stop again to get the hole in alignment for pin to be re-inserted. Use a punch to ensure the pin is flush and even on both sides of frame.
15. Insert trigger housing pin. Use a punch to ensure the pin is flush and even on both sides of frame.
16. Attach slide to frame.
17. Perform function checks to verify everything is working as it should. Make sure the trigger safety is working by pressing back on the side of the trigger without activating the safety. The trigger should not move rearward.

The CMC trigger is a self-contained, one-piece design that makes drop-in installation easy. But if you feel uncomfortable performing installation yourself, or you lack the proper tools, seek out help from a gunsmith. Your trigger will come with instructions for installation.

Included in the CMC AR-15/AR-10 trigger package, you will find:

- Trigger assembly
- Two trigger pins
- Four small screws
- T10 Torx key
- Installation and maintenance instructions

To install the trigger, you will need:
- A screwdriver or appropriate tool to remove your grip from the lower receiver
- A light hammer and 1/8” punch
- The included T10 Torx key
- Low strength threadlocking compound such as purple Loctite (recommended)
- Degreasing agent such as denatured alcohol (recommended)
- Small patches and pipe cleaner to degrease hardware (recommended)

Ensure the firearm is unloaded before proceeding!

1. Thoroughly degrease the screws using the small patches and denatured alcohol. Degrease the threaded portions inside the pins using the pipe cleaner and denatured alcohol. This will help ensure the thread-locking compound will bond to the surface. Set aside pins to allow any remaining alcohol evaporate.
2. Separate the upper receiver of the AR from the lower receiver. Place the lower in a vise block if you have one to make installation easier.
3. Move the safety selector to the fire position.
4. While holding the hammer, depress the trigger. Slowly ease the hammer forward. Do not allow the hammer to drop on its own.
5. Use the punch and hammer to push out the upper trigger pin using a moderate amount of force.
6. Lift out and remove the hammer.
7. While pushing down on the disconnector, use the punch to drift out the second trigger pin.
8. Lift the trigger and disconnector out of the lower receiver.
9. Depending on the lower receiver, you may need to loosen the grip to remove the safety before you can replace the trigger. To do this, use the screwdriver or appropriate tool to release the fastener inside your grip, loosing the screw to allow the grip to lower down only about a quarter-inch. You will see a small spring exposed. The spring goes into the lower receiver and puts pressure on a small detent that holds the safety selector in place. With the pressure relieved, remove the safety selector from the lower receiver.
10. Cock the hammer of your CMC drop-in trigger. Insert into the lower receiver. The holes in the lower receiver should align with the holes on the trigger assembly.
11. Reinsert safety selector and tighten grip screw.
12. Install the CMC retaining pins, making sure that the holes are in alignment. Th pins should be flush with the lower receiver.
13. Apply a small amount of thread-locker to the first screw and insert into the pin. Snug down using the T10 Torx key. Don’t over-tighten the screws. Repeat for the remaining screws. Clean off any excess thread-locking compound.
14. Verify the installation by pulling the trigger with your thumb over the hammer, preventing it from dropping at full speed.
15. Reassemble the rifle. Perform an additional round of function checks.

The CMC trigger is a self-contained, one-piece design that makes drop-in installation easy. But if you feel uncomfortable performing installation yourself, or you lack the proper tools, seek out help from a qualified gunsmith. Your trigger will come with instructions for installation.

Tools required:
- Hex key or flathead screwdriver to remove action screws
- Inch-pound torque driver. Check with the manufacturer of your rifle or stock/chassis system to determine the proper torque amount. Generally it’s about 40 to 65 inch pounds.
- A punch and light hammer to install the trigger pins
- Penetrating oil such as Kroil in case the pins are difficult to remove

Ensure your firearm is unloaded before proceeding!

1. Remove the bolt by pressing the bolt release, usually located inside the trigger guard. Some aftermarket actions may have a side-release button. Pull the bolt to the rear and remove.
2. Separate the barreled action from the stock by removing the action screws. Lift out the bottom metal or trigger guard assembly and set aside. The front action screw is shorter than the rear, so don’t mix them up.
3. Lift off the stock and set aside.
4. Add a small amount of penetrating oil such as Kroil to the pins to aid in removal (optional).
5. Secure barreled action in a vise with soft jaws to make installation easier.
6. Use a smaller punch to push out front pin from left to right. Do not remove the pin. Just push it out enough so the trigger can pivot outside of the pin.
7. Drift out the rear pin from the opposite direction. Do not completely remove the pin. Allow it to hold the bolt-stop mechanism in place.
8. Put your finger over bolt stop spring to prevent it from ejecting during removal. Remove the pin. Holding everything in place, remove the factory trigger, spring and bolt stop.
9. Put the new CMC trigger assembly in place. Align the bolt-stop with the groove of the receiver. Move the assembly back and forth until you see both holes have a clear path for the pin.
10. Hold the CMC trigger assembly in place while lightly tapping the front pin with a hammer to hold everything in place.
11. Insert the beveled or tipped end of the rear pin. Use a punch to push the pin into place.
12. Drive the front pin back in place.
13. Test the bolt-stop to ensure it can move up and down. If the front pin is installed too far, it could prevent travel of the bolt-stop.
14. Perform a quick function test while barreled action is still in vise. Insert the bolt back into receiver. Make sure the safety is in a safe position and press the trigger. Nothing should happen. Move the safety to the fire position. Pull the trigger. The firing pin should move. Cycle the action. The firing pin should not move forward unless you press the trigger. Pull back on the bolt to make sure the bolt release is working. The bolt should not come out of receiver until you press the bolt release.
15. Put the bottom metal back into the stock.
16. Install the stock/chassis onto the receiver. Align the trigger with the trigger guard opening.
17. Tighten the action screws loosely. Don’t apply a final torque yet. Ensure the stock/chassis is in the proper position. Apply a bit of rearward pressure on the barrel to make sure the recoil lug is engaging against the stock/chassis.
18. Snug down the action screws, alternative between front and rear.
19. Using your inch-pound torque driver, apply a final torque to the action screws.
20. Put the bolt back in receiver.
21. Verify the firearm is unloaded and perform function checks.